With the loss of JoAnn, sewers everywhere have been impacted. For historic costumers in Salt Lake County, Utah, finding fabric has become more frustrating than deciphering poorly-written pattern instructions, especially if you're someone who would rather avoid buying fabric online. You can't feel the fabric to gauge the texture and weight through a computer screen, and there's no hope of accurate color matching without seeing your fabrics in-person. Oh, sure, you could buy samples, but the cost can add up quickly, and a trip to the LA Fashion District is even more expensive. A quick Google search makes it look like the prospects aren't too bad. The results reveal a fair number of fabric stores in Salt Lake County that should give you plenty of options for the costume you're working on for that upcoming Regency ball. Or so you think. When you start driving to stores, by the time you're several stores in and all of them have been quilt shops with nothing but quilting cotton, flannel, and minky, it starts to get discouraging. But there is hope. You can still make costumes that will let you feel like Cinderella at your next historic dance event without the hassle of shopping online. Members of Clockwork and Gears Vintage Dancing have scoped out many of the fabric stores in Salt Lake County so you don't have to and have found some diamonds in the rough that are useful to historic costumers and cosplayers. The Tangled Thread (West Valley City) The Tangled Thread is a small local business owned by Connie Smith and run by her and her daughter Abi. This hidden gem was the last store we visited, but I'm putting it first because it was by far our favorite. The amount of quilting cottons: tiny. The amount of high-quality fabric for costumes and apparel: the majority of the store. There were knit fabrics, spandex, linen, satin, upholstery fabrics, and more. Most were made from natural fibers, which was a big selling point for us. Anyone who has been to a ball knows how nice it is to have a costume made from fabric that breathes instead of that plastic man-made heat-trapping stuff. They also had a fair amount of trims and other notions and a collection of uncut out-of-print patterns. The eco-conscious sewer may be interested to know that all their products are sustainably sourced. Much of their collection is deadstock fabrics they rescued from the path to the landfill, and they also give sewing supplies new life by helping people destash their cluttered craft rooms, leading to many unique and vintage options. It's a small store, so there's an element of luck involved. Yes, they have apparel fabric and they use their space well enough that there are many options to choose from, but will they have what you're looking for? Connie and Abi will help you find out. This was the greatest customer service experience I've ever had. They wanted to help, but it didn't feel like when you walk into Bath & Body Works and get attacked by "good customer service" the moment you step through the door. Instead, Connie and Abi welcomed us and then let us look around on our own for a bit before eventually striking up a conversation, and things flowed naturally from there. On this fabric run, we were specifically looking for a gold brocade. Up to this point in our quest, we hadn't encountered a single fabric store with any brocade, but when we walked into The Tangled Thread, there were several gold options just in the first rack. We were no longer just looking for something that would work. We were narrowing down options to pick a favorite. Then, Abi looked in the back and brought out several other possibilities, and Connie scrolled through photos of what they had in their off-site storage and offered to let us go over there and take a look if anything looked promising. We ended up finding the perfect fabric in-store, but we appreciated the offer. In a world that constantly promotes buying things online based on photos, it was nice meeting other sewers who understood the importance of seeing things in-person to the point they'd be willing to let us go to their off-site storage. This also speaks volumes for how much they care about their customers. They aren't trying to get through their day with minimal effort. They're taking a genuine interest in their customers and their customers' projects, and they want to do everything they can to help their customers succeed. And they aren't going to try pressuring you into buying anything. We also needed a cream fabric to go with the gold brocade, and they looked through their stock to help us find options, but they didn't have quite what we needed for the second fabric. They didn't try talking us into a different color or one of the options that wasn't quite right like a salesperson at a different store might. Instead, they wished us luck, asked us to send photos of the dress after it was done, and we went on our merry way. Don't want to drive all the way out there on the chance that they might have what you need? They got you. After we had all our fabrics figured out and were to the point of gathering other supplies, my sister was able to text them to see if they had the interfacing our pattern called for. They didn't at the time, so we loved the convenience of being able to get a quick answer without needing to drive out there to scope it out ourselves. This is not the largest fabric store in Salt Lake County, but they win for our favorite for their impressive selection despite their size and the unparalleled customer service. This was our last stop on this fabric hunt, but it's going to be our first stop for future trips. Design Company Fabrics (Sugarhouse) Design Company Fabrics is the Cullinan Diamond of Utah fabric stores. The largest fabric store in Salt Lake County, this 22,000 square foot store houses thousands of fabrics that are perfect for your costume and cosplay needs, and while you're blissfully wandering this maze of fabric, you'll notice there's not a single bolt of quilting cotton in sight. You'll notice they have everything else, though. The front section is primarily upholstery, bedding, drapery, and apparel fabrics, so many of which would be perfect for a historic gown or a dapper waistcoat. As you move farther back, you'll find denims, silks, satins, linens, knits, microfibers, tulle, suiting fabrics, a dedicated bridal section, and a full rainbow of vinyl for all your faux leather needs, whether that be a jerkin for an upcoming Renaissance faire or anime shoe covers. The first time you're there, it feels like it goes on forever, but you haven't truly seen it all until you reach the greenhouse with the outdoor fabrics. Can't find what you're looking for? They now offer fabric printing services for custom designs, like Spoonflower but local. Their notions are more limited, with their only available trims evidently being geared toward curtains, but if you're looking for a good tassel trim, this could be a place to look. The customer service here felt more like Bath & Body Works (just not quite that bad), but the fabric selection is too good for that to steer us away from this exceptional resource. Salt Lake Sewciety (Salt Lake City) Salt Lake Sewciety recently moved to a larger location in Salt Lake City. The location itself is a bit odd (if you feel like you're pulling into someone's driveway and walking into their garage, you're in the right place), but the store is excellent. They specialize in apparel fabric and have an impressive collection of knit fabrics. There are also outdoor fabrics, upholstery fabrics, satins, some suiting fabrics, a small bridal section, and more. In addition to fabrics, they carry sewing tools, buttons, snaps, belt buckles, D-rings, dungaree clips, zippers, and other apparel hardware. There was also a modest selection of interfacing. For fans of Gütermann thread, so far, this is the only store we've found that carries Gütermann thread in-store, and they have a large display with any color you might need. We didn't interact much with the employees here, but that alone says a lot about how good the customer service is. This is the type of place you can quietly shop without people getting in your face every few minutes. Introverts rejoice! Hobby Lobby (Various locations) Hobby Lobby used to just be a source of quilting cotton, flannel, minky, and fleece, but after JoAnn closed its doors, they revamped. You'll now find a small collection of satin, knits, linen, duck cloth, outdoor, and various other fabrics with costuming potential. All three of the Salt Lake County locations have similar options, though there are some differences between stores. The South Jordan location has a smaller fabric section than the Draper or West Valley locations, but all three have an impressive collection of trim, buttons, ribbon, and other notions, making Hobby Lobby one of the best remaining in-store options for notions, and they have a fair supply of interfacing. Currently, they're our go-to for zippers since they're the only store we know of that carries YKK zippers in-store. Michael's (Various Locations) If the algorithm knows you as well as it knows me, you've probably seen the ads about the Michael's new Knit & Sew Shop that started circulating shortly after JoAnn went under. If you're like me, you probably rushed over there all excited…only to be sorely disappointed that nothing changed except for the addition of a "Knit & Sew Shop" sign. Oh sure, they have a lot more fabric available online, but the entire purpose of this exercise was to find in-person fabric shopping. It looks like Michael's might be gradually expanding, though. For the first few months after the announcement, there were maybe five bolts of fabric that could be used for costumes on a good week. The rest was all standard quilt shop. During my more recent visits to a few of the locations, though, I've noticed the addition of some bins that have costume and apparel fabrics. I'm still not very impressed, considering all the hype they gave the "new Knit & Sew Shop," but maybe in coming months, we'll see the in-store selection continue to grow. Disappointing fabric selection aside, Michael's is still a great resource. They have a good selection of trim, ribbon, and buttons, and they're the only place I've found locally that carries the Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP thread. They also have Coats & Clark zippers. Overall, Michael's is worth a visit the next time you're gathering supplies for a sewing project. Nuttall's Sewing Centers (Various Locations) Nuttall's Sewing Centers isn't the best place for costume and apparel fabric since it's primarily a quilting store. The Riverton location had a grand total of two small racks of satin and tulle, and the Murray location had this plus a few bolts of knits. However, Nuttall's is noteworthy for other reasons. There's a selection of trim and a good supply of interfacing, and this is the only place we've found that sells boning by the yard for when you need something longer than an industrial zip tie. Nuttall's is a good place to get needles since they carry Schmetz brand, and if you like Coats & Clark zippers, you'll find them in all colors and sizes here. They also carry patterns but don't have pattern catalogues, so if you have the pattern number of something you saw online but don't want to pay for shipping and then wait for it to arrive, call Nuttall's, and they can check and let you know if they have it in stock. If they do, you can pick it up that day. The Fabric Center (West Jordan) The Fabric Center's selection of apparel and costume fabric is small, but it exists, which is more than most fabric stores in Salt Lake County can say, so it's worth noting. They have a small rack of satins and a few shelves of knits in addition to their other fabrics. Walmart (Various Locations) This one was unexpected, but some Walmart locations have a surprisingly useful, albeit small, fabric section where, in addition to quilting cotton, you can find various assortment of poly satin, home décor fabric, outdoor fabric, faux leather, duck cloth, interfacing, ribbon, trim, Coats & Clark zippers, bias tape, Schmetz needles, and various other sewing tools and supplies, some by Dritz and some off-brand. Of those we've visited, the Riverton S Hamilton View Rd Supercenter has the most fabric, and the South Jordan S Parkway Supercenter has the most tools and notions, though we'll update if that changes as our travels take us to new locations. What Are Your Finds? Now that we've reached the end of our list, we'd love to hear your lists. If you know of any other fabric stores in Salt Lake County, UT that are great for historic costuming and cosplay, let us know in the comments. If you want more occasions to use the costumes you've made, come dance with us! Most group members typically wear everyday modern-era clothes to our free weekly practices, but we are regularly involved with events that will give you ample opportunities to show off your hard work.

Masquerade balls have a rich history dating back to Renaissance Europe. Decorative masks allowed guests to conceal their identities, creating an air of mystique and intrigue amid the revelry. Masks were often made from paper mache, porcelain, or leather and adorned with feathers, gold-leaf, beads, and other embellishing materials. Though masquerades are not as popular today as they once were, the tradition persists. If you ever have the opportunity to participate in such an event, you will need a mask for the occasion. This tutorial can help if you would like to try your hand at making your own using paper mache. Though we do not profess expertise on historic mask making techniques, we have developed a method to make beautiful masks that will be a perfect fit for your face and creative vision. Step 1: Prepare Paper Strips and Paper Mache Paste You will want to start by preparing your materials. A variety of different papers and paste recipes could work for this process. If you want to follow what we did exactly, we used pieces of regular printer paper that we salvaged from a recycle bin. We then tore these into strips. Because tearing is not as neat as cutting with scissors, the rough edges of the torn paper allows the paste to absorb into the paper more easily. For our paper mache paste, we used a 1 to 1 ratio of flour and water. 1/2 cup flour and 1/2 cup water made plenty of paste for a single four layer mask, with some left over. If you live in a humid climate, you may want to add salt to the paper mache mixture or seal the mask before decorating it to prevent mold issues. Step 2: Cover Your Face with Plastic Wrap To prevent the paper mache part of the process from turning into an accidental wax job—with your eyebrows and eyelashes as unfortunate casualties—you will want to cover the upper half of your face with plastic wrap. Applying petroleum jelly to your face before placing the plastic wrap will help ensure it holds smoothly in place. Caution: to ensure ease of breathing, do not cover your nostrils. We will not be held liable if you asphyxiate yourself through crafting negligence. Step 3: Apply Paper Mache Strips Over the Plastic Wrap Find somewhere to lay down where you can make a mess but also be reasonably comfortable. We laid out yoga mats and covered both the mats and the pillows with towels to catch the paper mache spills. After setting up the area, you will probably want to recruit a crafting assistant to help you with the paper mache. While it may not be impossible to do it yourself, it is much easier with help. Make sure strips are applied smoothly with no gaps between the plastic wrap, especially around the eyes and against the nose. Just be very gentle when applying strips over the eyes. Extra space under the mask around the eyes and nose will cast a shadow over your eyes when wearing the mask. Pinching the paper mache strips in along the bridge of your nose when applying them will help prevent this. Also, because the cheeks raise with smiling, you may want to smile when the paper mache strips are applied to your face. Otherwise, any movement of the zygomaticus muscles may shift the mask when you are wearing it. Blow-Dry Thoroughly blow-dry each layer before applying the next one. Excess dampness between layers will make the mask less inclined to hold its shape when removed from your face. Repeat Apply several layers of paper mache strips to ensure a sturdy mask. For our masks, we did four layers of standard printer paper. If you are using a thinner type of paper, you may want to use more layers. Step 4: Aluminum Foil Cast and Dry Though the mask should already be mostly dry from blow drying, we found that the mask did not dry completely while being worn. Before removing the mask, press several layers of aluminum foil onto it to create a supportive foil cast. Then, you can pull it off your face and gently remove the plastic wrap from the inner layer of the mask. Put a few supports under the foil and set the mask aside somewhere to ensure it remains undisturbed by gravity, pets, or other interferants that could misshape it. Cups, Pringle cans, or other generally cylindrical objects make great supports. Let the mask dry for at least a day or two before continuing to step 5. Step 5: Shape the Mask Once the mask is completely dry, you can start shaping it. Trace the Current Shape of the Mask Obtaining a trace of the current shape of the mask will ensure the pattern you draw for the mask will stay within the edges of the paper mache material. Since the mask is 3D and the paper is 2D, you will need to roll the mask over the paper as you trace the edges. Next, cut out the traced shape, flip it over, and make sure it approximately fits the shape of the mask. Make adjustments as needed. Sketch and Cut Template Fold the mask template in half with the fold centered along the nose. Draw the shape you want to use for the mask, then cut it out before unfolding to create a symmetrical pattern. Example Templates This template was used to create the shape of the white dove-inspired mask shown below. This template was used to create the tree-bark mask shown below. This template was used to create the gold mask shown below. This template was used to create the silver flower mask shown below. Trace the Template onto the Mask Tracing the pattern onto the mask is a little bit of an imprecise art. You kind of have to move the pattern around, push it down in different spots to get a good fit, and then approximate the tracing. It can help to have someone else hold the nose part down while you are tracing the edges. It might also help to use masking tape to attach the template to the mask, but this will prevent you from tracing the points where the tape is attached. Trim the Paper Mache Cut the mask into the shape you drew using the pattern. We used a variety of different cutting implements and found that larger scissors worked best on the straight areas and larger curves, smaller scissors worked best on tighter curves, and a box cutter was most ideal for cutting the eyes and the bottom part of the mask that rests on the nose. Safety Note: Use care that you do not cut yourself while trimming the mask. The paper mache dries into a very hard material that is not easy to cut. You will need to be careful with how you hold the mask to ensure your hands and fingers stay out of the range of sharp cutting implements. Also, we observed that sometimes the cutting process causes small fragments of paper mache materials to break off and scatter unpredictably. There is a risk that these can fly into the eyes. While paper mache dust is not the most hazardous material you could get in your eyes, it is still irritating—speaking from experience here. Best practice would be to wear eye protection, especially if you have unilateral blindness or some other circumstance that would make an eye injury particularly devastating. Step 6: Decorate the Mask This is the most exciting part of the mask making process. You can customize your mask to look however you want. You might consider looking at our example masks below and browsing photos of other masquerade masks on the internet to find inspiration for yours. Ultimately, you can use any materials or design features that you desire, but we have listed a few suggestions below. Using Fabric Fabric is an especially good material for decorating your mask and works great to give it a smooth finish. Prepare your Fabric You can use your mask template to determine how much fabric you need to cover the mask. Cut around the template with approximately an extra ½ inch of fabric that can be rolled over the edges of the mask. If you are using a fabric that is prone to fraying, apply some Fray Check around the edges after cutting it. Start Gluing Key Areas Next begin gluing the fabric to the mask. We used a glue gun with a low heat setting so we could touch the glue without getting burned. Start by applying a short line of glue on the inside of the mask on the center top. Roll the fabric over the edge of the mask and press it against the glue. Before applying glue to the bottom center of the mask, pinch the fabric into the nose of the mask so the fabric is pressed smoothly against it. Then, apply the glue and roll the fabric over the bottom center edge. Next, cut slits where the eyes are and trim out a little of the fabric within the boundaries of the eyes. Just be sure to leave plenty of edge that can be rolled over and glued down to the back of the mask. If you are using a stiff, non-stretchy fabric, trimming sunburst cuts around the edges of the eye will also be helpful. If using a fray-prone fabric, you will want to apply Fray Check after cutting the eyes. When gluing the eyes, make sure the fabric is pinched smoothly over the bridge of the nose, and start by first gluing the inside corners of the eyes. Then, proceed to apply short sections of glue along the rest of edges of the eyes and roll the fabric over onto the glue. Finish Gluing the Rest of the Edges Finally, finish gluing the outside edges of the mask, one section at a time, working your way around the mask. Throughout the process, make sure you smooth the fabric over the front of the mask before rolling the edge over onto the glue on the back. Using Clay An airdry or polymer clay could be used to sculpt custom shapes and textures to decorate your mask. We used a 1/2 batch of a home-made clay recipe that we found online for one of our masks. The original recipe calls for 1 cup cornstarch, 1 cup PVA glue, 1 tablespoon vinegar, and 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. These are mixed together and heated up on a stove on medium-low heat until it the texture goes lumpy and then eventually starts to pull away from the sides. It is then cooled on a silicone pad. Once cool, sprinkle it with cornstarch and kneed in additional corn starch until it stops feeling sticky. Options for Embellishment Decorative trims, feathers, rhinestones, stick-on embellishments, and small silk flowers are all excellent options to use in the design of your mask. Step 7: Add Ribbons to Tie on the Mask Grosgrain ribbon is what we recommend for attaching your mask to your face. Though satin ribbons are beautiful, they are more likely to come untied than the more textured grosgrain. You could also use elastic, but in our experience, ribbon holds the mask better, is easier to put on, feels overall more comfortable, and looks fancier. You can obtain a sufficient length of ribbon by wrapping a section of ribbon around your forehead and then tying the two ends together behind your head in a bow. Cut the ribbon once you have the correct length. Next, find the mid point of this ribbon and cut it in half. Glue each half of the ribbon to the back of the mask, one on each side. Optional Step 8: Apply a Finishing Layer to the Back of the Mask If desired, you could use vinyl, felt, fabric, or a thin layer of craft foam to line the back of the mask. Use the mask template to trace the shape of the mask onto the material you plan to use. Cut the material slightly smaller than the size of the template so its edges will be well hidden behind the mask. Finally, glue the material to the back of the mask. Example Masks for Inspiration This dove-inspired mask was created by first covering it with a layer of white fabric. Some white lace was then added over the fabric. Feathers were glued to the back of the mask, and stick-on embellishment strips were placed to enhance the design. This gold mask was made by covering it with gold fabric. Gold trim was then added around the edges. This mask was decorated by covering it with a layer of silvery fabric. Silver trim was added to the edges, and feathers and fake flowers were glued to the side. This faux-bark mask was decorated by covering it with the airdry clay described above and drawing bark lines into the clay. It was then painted—first with a layer of black, and then dry-brushed with layers of medium brown, tan, and a light honey brown. Need an occasion to wear your mask? Clockwork and Gears Vintage Dancing will be helping run the Adult Night Out Fae Masquerade at the Viridian Event Center in West Jordan, UT on 5/22/26. It is a free event, but registration is required due to space limitations. More details are available on the Salt Lake County Library website. If you are reading this after the Fae Masquerade has passed, don't dismay. We frequently teach at a variety of different historic dance events, fantasy balls, masquerades, and conventions. You can check out our events page or our schedule to see a list of all our upcoming events. Perhaps you could wear your new masquerade mask at one of these.

A young lady dressed in a new satin gown walks with her escort into a magnificent ballroom lit by the hundreds of candles in the crystal chandeliers overhead. She scans the room, hoping to see the young man she met during her afternoon stroll in Kensington Park yesterday. She bubbles with excitement when she spots him but maintains her external demur, and she hopes his name will end up on one of the lines on the dance card around her wrist. Meanwhile, a farmer opens the door to his barn at the end of another long week and welcomes his neighbors as they enter. In their small Massachusetts community, the days are long and the work is hard, so he always looks forward to these occasions to invite some cheer into their otherwise mundane lives. The owner of the general store tunes his fiddle, and the blacksmith's apprentice pulls out his pennywhistle, and soon an evening of merriment commences. Despite their differences in social status and being an ocean away, the young lady and the farmer have one commonality: bringing people together through dance. The young lady and the other guests at the London ball would be participating in English country dance. This is a style of social dance in which couples perform a predefined series of figures, which repeats until the end of the song. Figures are groups of dance steps. For example, a right hand star involves all couples in a set putting their right hands into the center and walking in a circle. Unlike many forms of dance, English country dance doesn't require fancy footwork. If you can step to the left, step to the right, and turn around, you can do most English country dances. It's even easier since you don't have to remember what order to do the figures in. A caller tells dancers what to do next throughout the dance. Often there is an instructional period before each dance so participants can get comfortable with the figures before adding music. Historically, this was less common at formal balls, but at Clockwork and Gears Vintage Dancing, we always go over the figures if those present don't feel confident with a dance. Hopping across the pond to the Massachusetts farmer, the townsfolk's festivities would include contra dance. This is an American social dance style that evolved from English country dance, so the two are very similar. There are some differences in figures and terminology, and contra dance has less variety in formations. Dances typically occur in lines. Like English country dance, contra dance is known for the presence of a caller and the simplicity that makes it easy to learn. At Clockwork and Gears Vintage Dancing, we teach historic dances from both English country dancing and contra dancing, in addition to other styles, as we continue the tradition of bringing people together through dance. Come dance with us! Everyone is welcome regardless of experience-level. View our schedule for times and locations.